Tonight - Locals Only
Marie was exhausted….
Today was our travel day from Yellowstone, Wyoming to Butte, Montana ~ 200 miles about 4 hours.
Marie: “I’m going to hang here tonight. Lunch in Bozeman was amazing and so filling. Why don’t you grab a bite to eat and maybe check out the town? Don’t worry about me.”
Scott: “Sure. Okay. Casey at the desk mentioned Mac’s Tavern. I’ll grab some dinner and be back in an hour.” (Time stamp ~ 6:45 pm)
From the Miner’s Hotel (built in 1913) our lodging for the night, I headed down Park to Main.
Arriving at Mac’s Tavern, Sydney (patron) introduced herself and asked me what I was drinking. When I replied whiskey, she told her friend Connor (bartender) to pour me a Rabbit Hole and one for her. Over the next 20 minutes she told me the entire history of this old mining town.
(Note: When I relayed this part of the story to Marie this morning, she could not stop laughing. Do you think she was trying to pick you up? Which of course, then I could not stop laughing? My best estimate had her at about not quite 40. Conclusion - No!)
When her husband/boyfriend collected her, she mentioned they were all going across the street to Maloney’s, you should come. “Sounds good,” I replied.
I then struck up a conversation with our now (mutual friend) Connor the bartender who recommended the house meatloaf.
He said, “After you’re done with that. I’ll pour you a local whiskey (Sudden Wisdom) you’ll really enjoy.”
There’s a joke in there somewhere…but I’ll skip it for now!
The meatloaf was something like your mom would make. Moist with big chunks of onions. Fell apart with your fork. It was amazing! We talked about my trip so far, life back on the East Coast, etc….
After dinner, I headed across the street to Maloney’s. Clyde poured me Red Lodge IPA from Montana. Unfortunately, alas no Sydney!
Inside the eclectic bar there were odd decorations hanging ceiling to floor including an homage to Evil Knievel, the town’s local hero. Patrons all knew each other…..”Tell Ruth I said hello. See you after work tomorrow.”
Next I migrated back to the Miners Hotel downstairs Speakeasy & Casino - 51 Below. Recreation of a similar speakeasy that existed here in the 20s.
You walk through a couple rooms decorated with 20s period pieces which then triggers a secret entrance into the bar.
I sat down next to Alyssa (local) who was having an “interesting” conversation with Derek (bartender/owner) of 51 Below. More on that in a minute…
She was intently watching the Cubs v. Orioles game. Her Cubbies were getting hammered. Dad was a big fan, so she became a fan growing up. Born and bred in Butte, she gave me the insiders scoop on this town of about 30,000 people.
Couple rounds in….we went deep on both sides; 37, divorced with 3 kids, ex-high school sweethearts. Coincidentally also an accountant, small public accounting firm. Dad had been a CPA partner back-in-the-day. She loves to run. Dad was a former runner, now cyclist.
Her big trip to Chicago was in 2015. It sounded epic. Furtherest East she’s been to was separate trips to DC & Boston. When I told her our final destination was Glacier ~ 4 hours she laughed. Never been, but annually takes the 3 kids to Yellowstone about 4 hours in the other direction.
Group of tourists came stumbling in at some point and ordered the drink (shot) Washington Apple. When I said I had never heard of the drink she replied, “Derek, make my friend, Scott one”
After the rowdy group moved on, my “Fly on the Wall” fun began with Derek and Alyssa.
Our small group conversation turned to my trip, Yellowstone TV series, Butte, travel, etc….
“Hey Scott…you’ve been talking to Alyssa all night, help me convince her to go to Costa Rica with me.”
“Scott you’re a lucky tourist tonight, Derek is closing the bar after this weekend. Sold it and is moving on. You’re witnessing a little bit of history here tonight!”
Regarding Yellowstone - They told me Paramount producers secured the rights/access to the old Civic Center to start shooting 1923. It’s a prequel to Yellowstone starring Harrison Ford. It was in all the papers….$75,000/day revenue for this dusty old town.
Closing time, I walked out thanking them both for their hospitality and spirited conversation.
Walking upstairs to my hotel room, for a hot 15 seconds I kinda felt like Anthony Bourdain. Hell, maybe it was the alcohol, but I felt like a traveller and not a tourist. Always my goal when traveling. (Time stamp ~ 10:15 pm)
Backstory: This trip and other recent trips (Pre-COVID) admittedly I have been making a concerted effort to engage locals, put myself out there, in an attempt to understand the culture and the people in the towns and countries I travel to. Trying to combine the photos taken and conversations had to be the travel storyteller, I wish to be.
Rare situations like I found myself in tonight are the true blessings of travel. Finding out about others helps you understand yourself.
In fact, the next time I see Butte, Montana (or North Dakota, South Dakota, Wyoming) in the news I will smile and think of this trip.
Another reminder that deep down inside we’re all pretty much the same regardless of the physical distance that separates us.
Scott
Tonight, deviating from the scripted 18 page travel itinerary
July 13, 2022
PS - Originally tonight, I was going to write (only about what I saw) driving West Yellowstone > Big Sky > Bozeman > Butte. However, tonight I wrote about what I felt driving that same route and distance. Lucky me!